What is Tiki? (a primer)

I love the growing interest in tiki these days, but one thing that often gets lost is what “Tiki” actually is. Rum, lime, and fruit juices do not make a drink tiki. I read a silly article that described the diff between “tropical” and “tiki” as the former being lighter and drier while the latter more elaborate and sweet. This really misses the mark on what makes tiki such a cultural icon.

Rum’s history dates back to the 17th century, and the holy trinity of rum, lime, and sugar has been prevalent from the start. Classics like the grog have been consumed by British sailors since 18th century colonialism, a traditional Planter’s Punch was popularly imbibed by Caribbean plantation owners in the 19th century, and refreshers like the daiquiri and mojito catapulted to popularity thanks to American tourists flocking to Cuba to escape Prohibition in the early 20th century. These rum drinks are often lumped with “tiki,” but they are not.

“Tiki” is not a type of drink, Tiki is an homage to a time and place in history: mid 20th century America (1930s-70s). During this era dotted with socio-political stress, the lure of “exotic” escapism penetrated popular culture, influencing everything from drinks to food to music to fashion. Spearheaded by prominent barmen and restauranteurs, the tiki era arose as a Frankenstein dream combining the visual fantasies of far-off Polynesia (islands in the Pacific ocean) with the libations from the nearby Caribbeans and food inspired by East Asian cuisine. In today’s world, this would get outcries of cultural appropriation, but in that era, it struck gold.

Popular “exotic drinks” were based on simple Caribbean classics, but recipes were glammed up with new flavor combos to match the dreamy grandeur of Polynesia (i.e. replacing plain sugar with various fruit syrups, supplementing basic lime with other citrus and tart fruits). Today, modern tiki bars throwback to the genius of the bartenders of the era, creating delicious libations based on the templates established by their predecessors.


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